Things to Think About When You Consider Greenland Paddles
This page is for those who are unfamiliar with Greenland paddles and wish to learn more.
What is a Greenland Paddle?
Many different paddles have been developed to propel kayaks and canoes. The paddles of Greenland represent but a few of these. The Greenland style of paddle is a unique type of wood paddle created and refined over time by the Inuit people of Greenland for the specific purpose of propelling their kayaks through the seas bounding Greenland and northern Canada. The paddles are double-ended and vary in size and shape. Common features shared by all Greenland paddles are that they are made of wood and have a shaft (loom) that is straight and connects two long, narrow blades. The loom may be anywhere from a fist's width in length to over a shoulders width in length and are, thus, shorter than the shafts of conventional paddles. The blades are uniformly symmetrical and are contoured similarly on both the front and back surfaces. Visualized on end, a Greenland paddle's blade contour is that of two convex surfaces laid back-to-back. It is this shape that confers upon the Greenland paddle its unique hydrodynamic characteristics.
The Greenland paddle differs from the Aleutian paddle which also has symmetrical blades on the two ends of the loom. The Aleutian paddle, however, has different surfaces on the propulsive side and non-propulsive faces. Whereas either face of the Greenland paddle may be used for propulsion, only one face on the Aleutian paddle is used for propulsion. Symmetrical, convex paddle faces are the major distinguishing difference between the Greenland paddle and all other kayak paddles. Readers wishing additional information about kayak paddle shape and origin are referred to Harvey Golden's book, Kayaks of Greenland: The History and Development of the Greenlandic Hunting Kayak, 1600-2000. Some replica kayak paddles are shown on his website.
Two West Greenland paddles and a storm paddle.
Greenland paddlers affectionately refer to their paddles as "sticks." Sticks are rising in popularity as more and more paddlers become familiar with their advantages. Actually, to be accurate I should say Greenlandic paddles are "returning" to the kayaking community and reclaiming their popularity, because they were, after all, used by the Inuit long before we Southerners turned to kayaks for sport and past-time.
Very broadly speaking, Greenland paddles are categorized according to where they are predominantly found geographically; West Greenland paddles, East Greenland paddles, and Storm paddles. The latter paddle has its origins in the very harsh weather regions of upper Greenland, but "storm paddle" sounds better than "harsh weather region paddle." Actually, although we come to recognize a particular paddle shape as being evidence that it is unique to a particular coast of Greenland, this may be an artificial distinction. There has been a large crossover in styles seen in the paddles of the various regions. Having said this, end shape and loom length define the nomenclature we use today in describing paddles. I will continue with this nomenclature.
Whereas the tips of the West Greenland paddle may be either rounded or boxed, the tips of the East Greenland paddles are typically bulbous. Others consider the shoulder to be a distinguishing characteristic; East Greenland paddles being shoulderless. We recognize that there has been much interaction between the east and west regions, as well as with the Aleuts, and the characteristics of the various paddle are not always rigidly adhered to by paddle makers. On this website West Greenland and East Greenland terms are used to denote replica paddles that have been linked to a particular region.
West and east paddles both have long, narrow blades and a straight loom roughly equivalent in length to the length of a paddle blade. While the blades of both paddles may have an evident shoulder at the root, this feature is most commonly seen in West Greenland paddles. East Greenland paddles generally have a more flowing transition from loom to blade than do West Greenland paddles. The longer touring paddles from both regions may both be without shoulders. Shoulderless paddles have a lighter weight and enhanced cruising efficiency. The widened tips of the East Greenland Inuit paddles were made from carved whale jawbone. It is said that their bulbous ends help to prevent ice damage to the paddle. It may also serve notice to the paddle user when his hand is nearing the paddle's end. Between the shoulder and the widened end, a paddler always knows where his hands are on the paddle; in the roughest conditions; without having to take his eyes off the sea. The most obvious characteristic of "sticks" are their narrow blades. They are generally no wider than the distance between the second knuckle of the middle finger and base of the thumb when the hand is held to form a "C." This makes the paddle easy to grasp at blades end and allows the user greater leverage against the water when sweeping the paddle through the maneuvering arcs necessary for sculling or to roll a capsized kayak upright.
Very broadly speaking, Greenland paddles are categorized according to where they are predominantly found geographically; West Greenland paddles, East Greenland paddles, and Storm paddles. The latter paddle has its origins in the very harsh weather regions of upper Greenland, but "storm paddle" sounds better than "harsh weather region paddle." Actually, although we come to recognize a particular paddle shape as being evidence that it is unique to a particular coast of Greenland, this may be an artificial distinction. There has been a large crossover in styles seen in the paddles of the various regions. Having said this, end shape and loom length define the nomenclature we use today in describing paddles. I will continue with this nomenclature.
Whereas the tips of the West Greenland paddle may be either rounded or boxed, the tips of the East Greenland paddles are typically bulbous. Others consider the shoulder to be a distinguishing characteristic; East Greenland paddles being shoulderless. We recognize that there has been much interaction between the east and west regions, as well as with the Aleuts, and the characteristics of the various paddle are not always rigidly adhered to by paddle makers. On this website West Greenland and East Greenland terms are used to denote replica paddles that have been linked to a particular region.
West and east paddles both have long, narrow blades and a straight loom roughly equivalent in length to the length of a paddle blade. While the blades of both paddles may have an evident shoulder at the root, this feature is most commonly seen in West Greenland paddles. East Greenland paddles generally have a more flowing transition from loom to blade than do West Greenland paddles. The longer touring paddles from both regions may both be without shoulders. Shoulderless paddles have a lighter weight and enhanced cruising efficiency. The widened tips of the East Greenland Inuit paddles were made from carved whale jawbone. It is said that their bulbous ends help to prevent ice damage to the paddle. It may also serve notice to the paddle user when his hand is nearing the paddle's end. Between the shoulder and the widened end, a paddler always knows where his hands are on the paddle; in the roughest conditions; without having to take his eyes off the sea. The most obvious characteristic of "sticks" are their narrow blades. They are generally no wider than the distance between the second knuckle of the middle finger and base of the thumb when the hand is held to form a "C." This makes the paddle easy to grasp at blades end and allows the user greater leverage against the water when sweeping the paddle through the maneuvering arcs necessary for sculling or to roll a capsized kayak upright.
Shouldered paddle (top) and a nonshouldered paddle (bottom).
The third paddle referred to above is the Storm paddle. Today, we refer to any short paddle with average length blades and a short loom as a Storm paddle. This is because they are typically carried for use in bad weather conditions. Due to their shorter length, they store easily and make for convenient backup paddles that match the greenlandic style. But this type of paddle is actually believed to be a unique style of paddle that originated in regions with prevalent high winds and harsh weather. Its shortened overall length was advantageous in overcoming wind resistance and the shortened loom forced the paddles into a more powerful, deeper paddling technique called a full sliding stroke. In regions where this short paddle originated, it was used exclusively. The Inuit carried no backup paddle. The smaller Norsaq, a blade-shaped piece of wood about a foot and a half in length, was carried on the foredeck as backup (it also served other purposes). Today the Norsaq is used almost exclusively for rolling.
With rare exception, Greenland style paddles are not feathered.
With rare exception, Greenland style paddles are not feathered.
Regular loom (top) versus storm loom (bottom)
Greenland paddles vary in overall paddle length. The percentage of the length that is dedicated to what is termed "loom," or "shaft" is relatively constant for an individual. On this website we refer to a paddle with the loom of roughly 1/3rd of the paddle's overall length, as being a "general purpose" paddle. When the proportion of paddle forming the loom falls to half this value, the paddle falls into the "storm paddle" category. The most commonly varied personal preference among individual Greenland paddle users is blade length. Whereas loom length may be considered to be a constant, determined by his or her anthropomorphic dimensions, blade length determines how the paddle can be used. Here, Greenland style paddles depart from typical European style paddles.
General purpose paddles are typically as long as the paddler can reach upward and cup the paddles end while still standing flat-footed. This is not different from how one would size a European style paddle. But here similarities between the two paddle styles end. Since the overall paddle length factors into how the blade will enter the water's surface, a Greenland paddle can be varied in length to optimize its use in different types of activities.
The angle a paddle enters the water's surface is inversely related to its overall length. A relatively short paddle will enter at a steeper angle than will a longer paddle and the user will tend to hold it higher on the chest. Shorter paddles work best in wider kayaks and in kayaks with high decks. Because the tip of the short paddle travels a shorter distance than does a longer paddle, it must be used at a higher cadence than a longer paddle to propel a similar kayak at the same speed. This translates to additional work for you when day-tripping with your paddle group. Touring paddles, in contrast, tend to be held lower and more towards the paddlers lap, making them easier for the paddler to draw on core muscles. They do, however, require that additional force be applied to the paddle and they do cause a kayak to yaw more than does a shorter paddle. With respect to the latter, longer touring style paddles work best in longer kayaks where the side-to-side rotation is offset by the greater resistance to rotational forces offered by the extended wet surface.
Regarding the overall efficiency of Greenland paddles, Heath (6) claims that Greenland paddles are more effective coming out of the water at the end of a stroke than are conventional European style paddles, and are thus energy conserving. Most Greenland paddlers who use longer, touring style paddles find them to be less tiring on longer trips.
Shorter paddles are advantageous in some special circumstances. Noted above are their advantages in bad weather conditions. But, because the blade is much easier to handle underneath the waters surface than is a long blade, it's also much easier to roll with. If you enjoy surfing, or just enjoy rolling in a local pool while passing the winter months away, give a short-bladed rolling-style paddle a try. They're fun and best suited for play.
General purpose paddles are typically as long as the paddler can reach upward and cup the paddles end while still standing flat-footed. This is not different from how one would size a European style paddle. But here similarities between the two paddle styles end. Since the overall paddle length factors into how the blade will enter the water's surface, a Greenland paddle can be varied in length to optimize its use in different types of activities.
The angle a paddle enters the water's surface is inversely related to its overall length. A relatively short paddle will enter at a steeper angle than will a longer paddle and the user will tend to hold it higher on the chest. Shorter paddles work best in wider kayaks and in kayaks with high decks. Because the tip of the short paddle travels a shorter distance than does a longer paddle, it must be used at a higher cadence than a longer paddle to propel a similar kayak at the same speed. This translates to additional work for you when day-tripping with your paddle group. Touring paddles, in contrast, tend to be held lower and more towards the paddlers lap, making them easier for the paddler to draw on core muscles. They do, however, require that additional force be applied to the paddle and they do cause a kayak to yaw more than does a shorter paddle. With respect to the latter, longer touring style paddles work best in longer kayaks where the side-to-side rotation is offset by the greater resistance to rotational forces offered by the extended wet surface.
Regarding the overall efficiency of Greenland paddles, Heath (6) claims that Greenland paddles are more effective coming out of the water at the end of a stroke than are conventional European style paddles, and are thus energy conserving. Most Greenland paddlers who use longer, touring style paddles find them to be less tiring on longer trips.
Shorter paddles are advantageous in some special circumstances. Noted above are their advantages in bad weather conditions. But, because the blade is much easier to handle underneath the waters surface than is a long blade, it's also much easier to roll with. If you enjoy surfing, or just enjoy rolling in a local pool while passing the winter months away, give a short-bladed rolling-style paddle a try. They're fun and best suited for play.
Designing a Greenland paddle to fit your particular needs
By now it should be clear that not all Greenland paddles are the same. Physically, they vary in length, blade shape, thickness, and loom shape. Appearance wise, lamination can add an almost infinite layer complicating wood patterns to the decision you must make in choosing your own paddle. We can make them short so that they fit under the bungees of your kayak's foredeck for use as a backup paddle, or we can make them long and narrow for efficient touring. If you are an experienced paddler, intent on taking your paddle in wild surf, you may choose a paddle with a stiffer backbone. For wilderness paddles, where you don't need additional worries of paddle breakage, we can strengthen the blades and loom with ash or other hardwoods. ...and the list of various combination of options and styles goes on... The whole idea of ordering a custom paddle is to craft the paddle to your specific needs.
So, what are those needs? If you are new to Greenland style kayaking, please consider reading through the topics outlined below. We hope that after doing so you will feel more confident in arriving at a design you will feel comfortable with for years to come. Let's begin.
What do you want to do with this paddle?
If this is your first Greenland paddle, you have probably already tried out a friend's stick and found it to be a pleasant experience. You are now looking for your own paddle to begin working on your own Greenland skills. We recommend a medium length, solid western red cedar stock paddle with shoulders. These paddles are great paddles to begin learning sculling techniques and various other Greenland kayak skills. Medium length, general purpose paddles are short enough to be maneuverable under water, yet long enough to take on a weekend paddle trip. Best of all, they're durable. With a little maintenance, you will be using this paddle for years to come. Shoulders are important because you will begin to use them as landmarks on the paddle. Over time, muscle memory will take over and you will not have to look at the paddle to know exactly how it is positioned in your hands.
Is this your primary paddle, or will it be used for a secondary purpose?
Obviously, if you are ordering a backup paddle, you already know you need a Storm. Your only considerations need be length and how you want the paddle configured. A 70" storm will fit on the foredeck of most 17' kayaks. If your kayak is shorter, you may want to reduce the length to 68". We can make shorter paddles if necessary, but below 68" begins to compromise the paddles efficiency.
Are you looking for a longer, more efficient paddle to complement your general purpose paddle and make those extended paddles a bit more enjoyable? We recommend a touring length paddle. You may also want to consider adding hardwood tips to help prevent everyday nicks and abrasions. Alternatively, we can insert a hardwood spline with a cross directional grain into the blade's end to help prevent end splitting. This will extend the paddle's life expectancy.
Some people like to have on hand a short paddle specifically for rolling and playing. These are highly maneuverable paddles, reserved for particular activities and are not recommended for general purpose kayaking. They are for play.
Are you looking for an attractive laminated paddle to complement your new kayak?
We are constantly making new paddles with different wood combinations. These paddles are posted in the stock paddle section on the pricing page as they become available. Check back frequently to look over existing stock. Or, call us with your specs. We 'll be happy to build a paddle that meets them.
Are you looking to own a Replica paddle?
We occasionally build replicas of historic paddles, just to try them on water. If you have a particular replica in mind, call us.
Frills
Top: Epoxy. Middle: inserts. Bottom: Solid
Tip Protection: Once you arrive at a general configuration, you may want to consider throwing in some frills. Adding hardwood tips to any paddle will only serve to lengthen the life expectancy of the paddle. Paddles tend to split along the grain with age. Abuse at the tip hastens this process. Tips are joined to the paddle body using a hardwood spline glued into two mortise joints and pinned in place with dowel rods.
An alternative to a full hardwood tip is a hardwood spline insert. These inserts lengthen life expectancy by preventing end splitting. They do not reduce softwood abrasion, as does a true hardwood tip. Hardwood inserts are useful for protecting the tips on laminated paddles. They prevent the laminated layers from fraying and spreading while continuing the lines of laminated structure to the paddles end.
A third alternative is to cover the tip with fiberglass or carbon-fiber sleeves. The sleeves are glassed in with clear epoxy and completely eliminates wood fraying. To a lesser degree, simply coating the tip with a protective coating of epoxy will also length the life expectancy of the tip.
We can add a pigment to the epoxy to simulate bone tips. The disadvantage of epoxy is that it cannot be removed if you decide to resurface the paddle later.
Loom shape: Lots of choices, I know... Not actually a frill, but a choice that must be made. Do you prefer a square, or oval loom shape?
In Retrospect
Solid Paddle versus Laminated paddle: We prefer to craft paddles from solid blanks of clear Western Red Cedar (WRC); i.e., 2 x 4s. WRC is the lightest of all the soft woods (excluding balsa, which is too soft for use in paddlemaking) and it has a high floatability. It is easy to work with and does not require a large time investment (read monetary). Merging WRC with other woods to make a composite paddle adds weight to the final construction because other woods, even soft woods, are heavier than WRC, and because the glue itself is an additional weight consideration. Composite construction can, in fact, strengthen a paddle; particularly by employing a thin segment of hardwood along the backbone. But since solid paddles are strong, flexible paddles to begin with, we wonder if the additional strength gained is an adequate trade-off for the additional weight gain. This said, there are reasons why one may prefer a paddle with additional durability. Moreover, there are circumstances where a laminated blank is a necessity.
Soft versus hardwoods: Although WRC is a soft wood, it does stand up to everyday use when properly maintained and cared for. To be properly maintained, a WRC paddle must be periodically sanded and re-finished; depending on how often the paddle is used and the conditions and treatment the paddle receives. All paddles, over time, will show wear. The tips are particularly vulnerable. Paddlers use their paddles for balance when exiting the kayak, or the paddle will accidentally hit a rocky bottom. I once mistakenly took a WRC paddle into a ship graveyard. When I wasn't using it to push my kayak off of sunken hulls, it was hitting submerged iron spikes that lay beneath the water's surface. A few swipes of fine-grained sandpaper, a little touching up with tung oil, and the paddle was rejuvenated. (You can't do that to a carbon-fiber paddle.)
Tips to prevent wear: When ordering a custom paddle, we highly recommend you consider ordering it with hardwood tips, or a cross-grained hardwood insert. Alternatively, we can protect the ends of solid WRC paddles by dipping them in epoxy. Two epoxy treatments are available: clear, or bright white. The latter is used to emulate the bone-tipped paddles of northern origin.
Please keep in mind, "No option yet devised by wood crafters works better at preventing paddle damage than thoughtfulness and good preventative maintenance."
Please keep in mind, "No option yet devised by wood crafters works better at preventing paddle damage than thoughtfulness and good preventative maintenance."
More about Laminated Paddles: While solid paddles are suitable for most purposes, there are occasions where only a blank made by laminating layers of wood, will meet the required design specifications. For example, designs requiring a blade wider than 3 ½" or a loom with a long axis measuring more than 1 ½", must be made from a blank that contains laminated layers of wood.
For beauty, nothing surpasses the look of a paddle made by laminating light and dark woods. Moreover, lamination can be used to strengthen a paddle. Paddles made by laminating alternating strips of cherry or spruce and western red cedar are not only appealing to the eye, but stronger in the shaft than are other paddles. In special cases, the increase in weight can be offset by hollowing portions of the loom, but we prefer to not use this method because it compromises the integrity of the paddle. When a paddle is crafted from a combination of soft and hard woods, every step is taken to ensure that the paddle will be as light as is practical without compromising strength.
Potentially, lamination offers other advantages over the solid paddle. When a paddle is laminated, the strength of the paddle can be enhanced by alternating the directions the grain in the various components before they are glued. We have created some very nice paddles from relatively poor quality wooden stock using this method. By laminating the blades and loom to just over their finished widths, the amount of wood waste can be reduced.
Finally, our two piece paddles are laminated because of way the paddle must be build around the ferrule system.
Laminated paddles are more expensive to make than solid paddles because of the additional man-hours of labor required to craft the blank.
For beauty, nothing surpasses the look of a paddle made by laminating light and dark woods. Moreover, lamination can be used to strengthen a paddle. Paddles made by laminating alternating strips of cherry or spruce and western red cedar are not only appealing to the eye, but stronger in the shaft than are other paddles. In special cases, the increase in weight can be offset by hollowing portions of the loom, but we prefer to not use this method because it compromises the integrity of the paddle. When a paddle is crafted from a combination of soft and hard woods, every step is taken to ensure that the paddle will be as light as is practical without compromising strength.
Potentially, lamination offers other advantages over the solid paddle. When a paddle is laminated, the strength of the paddle can be enhanced by alternating the directions the grain in the various components before they are glued. We have created some very nice paddles from relatively poor quality wooden stock using this method. By laminating the blades and loom to just over their finished widths, the amount of wood waste can be reduced.
Finally, our two piece paddles are laminated because of way the paddle must be build around the ferrule system.
Laminated paddles are more expensive to make than solid paddles because of the additional man-hours of labor required to craft the blank.
Our role
If you are contacting us for the first time, we will send you a measurements form and questionnaire. Ask a friend to help you with the measurements, because the measurements are most accurately made by another person. Then fill out the questionnaire and return both to us via e-mail, or ground mail. Be sure to include your telephone number so we may call you to discuss the various options you select.
If you are a returning customer and we have your measurements on file, drop us a note with the specifications of your new paddle and we'll give you a price quote.
If you prefer one of our "In Stock" paddles, contact us to confirm that the paddle is still available. If so, we will be happy to take your order over the phone and ship it to you within a day or so.
If you are a returning customer and we have your measurements on file, drop us a note with the specifications of your new paddle and we'll give you a price quote.
If you prefer one of our "In Stock" paddles, contact us to confirm that the paddle is still available. If so, we will be happy to take your order over the phone and ship it to you within a day or so.
Suggested for Further Reading
1. Building The Greenland Kayak. A Manual for Its Construction and Use. Christopher Cunningham. Ragged Mountain Press/ McGraw-Hill, Camden, Maine. pp125-132. 2003.
2. Eastern Artic Kayaks. History, Design, Technique. John D. Heath and E. Arima. University of Alaska Press, Fairbanks, Alaska. pp 14-15, 45-49.2004.
3. Building a Greenland Kayak. Mark Starr. Mystic Seaport Museum, Inc., pp 95-98. 2002.
4. Kayaks of Greenland. The History and Development of the Greenlandic Hunting Kayak, 1600-2000. Harvey Golden. Whitehouse Grocery Press, 2006.
5. Making a Greenland Paddle. Chuck Holst. A PDF file for making your own Greenland paddle available through Qajaq USA.
6. "The Narrow Blade: Theory and Practice." Heath, J. Sea Kayaker. Summer 1986.
7. Greenland Paddles: Fad or Future? Eric Soares. Eric Soares Seakayaking Adventures blog.
The Weathered Paddle | 443.962.7612 | Baltimore, MD | Where the beauty and warmth of rich woods
are blended to create fine paddles.